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Fretboard Radius?
aaron wahl
#1 Posted : 7/16/2008 11:43:07 PM
aaron wahl


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So... What is the fretboard radius on my 2006 Ibanez S470DXQM? (Wizard II Neck)
KidMat
#2 Posted : 7/17/2008 12:47:07 AM
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According to Ibanez's catalog of this year,
Wizard 2 specs are:
- 25,5"
- 19 mm thick at 1st fret
- 21 mm thick at 12th fret
- 400 mm Radius
Ouija
#3 Posted : 7/17/2008 7:12:19 AM
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Unfortunately, the ZR is 430mm. So they mismatch. 400mm radius fretboard in itself forces you to have the action higher to prevent the strings 'fretting out' on string bends. The mismatch with the trem makes it worse, because as soon as you set the outer E's as low as they can go, the inner strings will be sitting higher. Lower them down as low as they can go and the outer strings will be buzzing.
pinetree.rg
#4 Posted : 7/17/2008 1:12:00 PM
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Isn't it the other way around? If the inner strings are as low as can be, the outer strings are higher, and if they are low, then the inner strings are buzzing. Either way, it's not good.

Ivan
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hand made KFX Shaman 50 with matching 2x12 cab
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KidMat
#6 Posted : 7/17/2008 1:19:28 PM
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In that case, just find a matching Wizard 1 neck with 430mmRadius,
and set it on your 470S dxqm? If it has the same radius,
I guess it is ok!
Ouija
#5 Posted : 7/17/2008 4:08:49 PM
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pinetree.rg wrote:
Isn't it the other way around? If the inner strings are as low as can be, the outer strings are higher, and if they are low, then the inner strings are buzzing. Either way, it's not good.

Ivan


Yep. My mistake, i wasn't thinking as i was typing (happens all the time).
CloneJem7v
#7 Posted : 7/18/2008 10:02:56 PM
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KidMat wrote:
In that case, just find a matching Wizard 1 neck with 430mmRadius,
and set it on your 470S dxqm? If it has the same radius,
I guess it is ok!


seems like a lot of trouble to find a 22 fret wizard 1 neck nowdays without the rest of the guitar stuck onto it
many guitars including serveral Ibanez models
I also do this Cobalt Raptor Web Design
Guest
#9 Posted : 7/18/2008 10:13:59 PM
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Well the rest of the guitar will be better too so it's not such a bad trade.
KidMat
#8 Posted : 7/19/2008 7:51:47 AM
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CloneJem7v wrote:
seems like a lot of trouble to find a 22 fret wizard 1 neck nowdays without the rest of the guitar stuck onto it


I thought it often popped here and there on eBay,
with random names like "Original Wizard",
"90s saber neck", "540S neck", etc...?
You know, not obviously "wizard 1 430mm-17mm" or so
Ouija
#10 Posted : 7/19/2008 10:12:36 AM
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Yeah. But most of those are block heel Wizard I's. 24 fret RG Wizard I's pop up more often.
KidMat
#11 Posted : 7/19/2008 3:01:42 PM
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Then buy a '89 540 S LTD DY wherever,
keep the neck and throw the rest away.
(Wait a minute...)
lysy
#13 Posted : 7/22/2008 5:16:26 AM

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Is it a real problem?
430 is not so much...
I think you are seeking every possibility to blame wizard II or just korean S guitars.
Isn't it possible to put small metal plates between main ZR body and intonation parts to adjust height?
http://img110.imageshack...10/5217/gkpiezo22ev.jpg
I'm talking about these shining plates with holes.(its edge pro)

I've had Ibanez JS1000 with big radius and it wasn't adjusted good too, but it was still very comfortable.
I've seen some fenders and fretboard radius wasn't matching bridge radius exactly and they were ok.
Prime
#14 Posted : 7/22/2008 6:28:11 AM
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lysy wrote:
Is it a real problem?
430 is not so much...
I think you are seeking every possibility to blame wizard II or just korean S guitars.
Isn't it possible to put small metal plates between main ZR body and intonation parts to adjust height?
http://img110.imageshack...10/5217/gkpiezo22ev.jpg
I'm talking about these shining plates with holes.(its edge pro)

I've had Ibanez JS1000 with big radius and it wasn't adjusted good too, but it was still very comfortable.
I've seen some fenders and fretboard radius wasn't matching bridge radius exactly and they were ok.


And I bet your one of the people that don't have a Wizard I equipped S. I cannot count the amount of times people said similar things only to come back later and say...Man you guys were right. Yeah.. non matching radius is not as good as matching. Seems obvious to me. And yes you could shim the saddles on the bridge. Which should be done by Ibanez...at least on the "Prestige" guitars. But whatever....this horse has been beat to death.

BTW....I own both MIK and MIJ. I've had S series guitars for 18 years.
Ouija
#15 Posted : 7/22/2008 6:29:57 AM
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Yes. You could shim the ZR to make it 400mm. But that doesn't solve the problems of a fat sided neck, or the fact the nut slots are straighter than the radius of the board, leaving the outer E strings higher to start off with, or the fact that a 400mm radius requires you to have the strings higher to allow you to bend the strings further before they choke (fret out).

You should try a 20 inch radius neck (500mm). You wouldn't believe how low to the frets you can get the strings and still be able to bend them all the way across the fretboard.

Typically, people who defend the Korean stuff either aren't picky or just haven't tried a good Japanese Saber. I used to defend the Korean S series for the first year i was on this forum until i got my first Japanese Saber. So did fretrunnr. So did a lot of people. The difference is quite noticeable. I'm guessing you only own a Korean Saber.

Oh! And the JS necks aren't that great, to be honest. They also require you to shim the saddles, are quite 'chunky' and tend to have high action too (but Joe's got big hands, so i guess he doesn't mind). At least the shape of the back of the neck on the JS's are quite nice. Mind you. if i ever got one, i'd rip the neck off and stick a Wizard I from an old S540 on it.
fretrunr
#16 Posted : 7/22/2008 6:50:05 AM
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Ouija wrote:
Yes. You could shim the ZR to make it 400mm. But that doesn't solve the problems of a fat sided neck, or the fact the nut slots are straighter than the radius of the board, leaving the outer E strings higher to start off with, or the fact that a 400mm radius requires you to have the strings higher to allow you to bend the strings further before they choke (fret out).

You should try a 20 inch radius neck (500mm). You wouldn't believe how low to the frets you can get the strings and still be able to bend them all the way across the fretboard.

Typically, people who defend the Korean stuff either aren't picky or just haven't tried a good Japanese Saber. I used to defend the Korean S series for the first year i was on this forum until i got my first Japanese Saber. So did fretrunnr. So did a lot of people. The difference is quite noticeable. I'm guessing you only own a Korean Saber.

Oh! And the JS necks aren't that great, to be honest. They also require you to shim the saddles, are quite 'chunky' and tend to have high action too (but Joe's got big hands, so i guess he doesn't mind). At least the shape of the back of the neck on the JS's are quite nice. Mind you. if i ever got one, i'd rip the neck off and stick a Wizard I from an old S540 on it.


Ouija is CORRECT! Once you play a Golden Age S with a TRUE Wizard I neck, BAM,
The Wizard II's just don't cut it anymore. I still have, & PLAY my 2 MIK Ss,
BUT, they really feel FAT compared to my 4 Golden Agers
1989 S540CR "ELLA"
1991 FGM100PS "FRANKIE"
1992 S540BMAV "BURLENE"
1993 S540FMTT "JADE"
1996 S540FMTP "PLUM"
2007 S470DXQMBLB "LUNA C."
2007 S620EXQMGTB "GREYLYN"

zen-abi
#17 Posted : 8/20/2008 4:29:15 PM

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but, if you have good guitar builder you can always make modification from new wizard II to old wizard. wizard II have lots of meet on back side of neck.
right?
Megatron
#18 Posted : 8/20/2008 5:10:59 PM
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zen-abi wrote:
but, if you have good guitar builder you can always make modification from new wizard II to old wizard. wizard II have lots of meet on back side of neck.
right?


You could, but the odd feel has to do more with the shape of the neck. They're actually not that much thicker than the original wizards, just shaped oddly. Ibanez also thickened the neck since the AANJ puts the neck screws further from the headstock, lengthening the weaker part of the neck.

There's still the issue with the fretboard radius, which is sheer stupidity IMO. It's obvious that a 430 mm trem needs to be mated with a 430 mm radus neck.
Attention noobzors:
THE PICKUP GUIDE
THE TREM GUIDE

Yes that's mine.. and it IS real Mother of Pearl.. inlaid in Ebony!
zen-abi
#19 Posted : 8/20/2008 6:41:25 PM

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Megatron wrote:
zen-abi wrote:
but, if you have good guitar builder you can always make modification from new wizard II to old wizard. wizard II have lots of meet on back side of neck.
right?


You could, but the odd feel has to do more with the shape of the neck. They're actually not that much thicker than the original wizards, just shaped oddly. Ibanez also thickened the neck since the AANJ puts the neck screws further from the headstock, lengthening the weaker part of the neck.

There's still the issue with the fretboard radius, which is sheer stupidity IMO. It's obvious that a 430 mm trem needs to be mated with a 430 mm radus neck.


Man I love the feel of rg1570 prestige neck, but I don't like their big bodyes :-) I will ask one guy in my neighbour who is guitar builder if he can make this modification. He makes incredible good instruments.

oh, I order s320 today
my first ibanez Happy
SP2333
#12 Posted : 8/20/2008 9:54:19 PM
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KidMat wrote:
Then buy a '89 540 S LTD DY wherever,
keep the neck and throw the rest away.
(Wait a minute...)

No dont..
1960s Guyatone
1987 Ibanez 540P Power WH
1989 Ibanez 540S LTD DY Desert Yellow
1990 Ibanez 540R Copper metalic CM
1991 Ibanez UV7BK Universe
2001 Ibanez JS1000 WH Parts Built
Various other guitars....
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